Recently, when I was in Sri Lanka, I was having a look at the local cookery books and, similar to the ones I had seen in Kerala, they seemed a bit dated, 70’s style.
Photograph by © Kim Lightbody and book published by Frances Lincoln
Don’t get me wrong the recipes are probably wonderful, but today we are quite spoilt with such beautiful cookery books being published here in the UK that the bar has been raised long ago on what makes a great looking cookery book. So you can image how thrilled I was to arrive home to find Prakash Sivanathan and Niranjala Ellawala’s beautiful cookbook ‘Sri Lanka The Cookbook’ waiting for me – photo above. 
Photograph by © Kim Lightbody and book published by Frances Lincoln
Firstly I adore the tactile, almost hessian feeling cover and opening up the book I was equally as impressed. The photographs, of which there are many, where well shot by Kim Lightbody – matt and crisp with great props and importantly, tasty looking recipes. Photographs are so important and sometimes I have high hopes when opening a cook book for the first time and my heart sinks a little as the photographs just don’t do justice to the book. I’m no pro by any means but I am quite particular on what I think looks good to the reader.
Photograph by © Kim Lightbody and book published by Frances Lincoln
The book starts with an introduction giving a concise overview of Sri Lanka’s chequered past, it’s people and cuisine. As a side note: if you want to learn more about Sri Lanka I highly recommend these two books that I read on my recent trip. Love them both equally.
It then gives a short note about the authors themselves and their background – interestingly Niranjala is Sinhalese from the south, growing up in the the hill country in Ratnapura and Balangoda and Prakash a Tamil from the Jaffna peninsula in the north – and then moving to London for university. Following their studies they set up ‘Elephant Walk’ restaurant in London in 2004. In 2006 it won the coveted ‘Cobra Good Curry Guide Award’ for the best Sri Lankan Restaurant in the UK. The restaurant closed however in 2013 and the couple continue to work with food through their Coconut Kitchens cookery school.
Photograph by © Kim Lightbody and book published by Frances Lincoln
The next sections are dedicated to a glossary of ingredients and how to make a range Sri Lankan curry powders, before tempting readers with a host of Sri Lankan favourites: idli, appa (hoppers), sambols and many meat, fish and vegetable kari (curries). Some of the ingredients they use are exciting as I don’t often cook with them – such as plantain, snake gourd, breadfruit. Thankfully I live near an Asian area so sourcing all these ingredients is straightforward. For the home cook who loves to try new things – this is the book for you. That said there are many ingredients which don’t require so much sourcing for ingredients – such as the prawn and coconut curry or spicy baked chicken. Come the Autumn I am definitely going to be trying the ‘wild boar curry’. There are a few pages dedicated to sweet recipes – love cake, semolina pudding, banana fritters, but it is the mains, sambols and other savoury delights, which really capture my attention.
Photograph by © Kim Lightbody and book published by Frances Lincoln
It is published by Francis Lincoln and is available to buy at all good bookshops or online. This is definitely a keeper for me and I hope those of you who want to try to widen your Sri Lankan repertoire will consider getting hold of a copy. It’s a book you want to linger over and to go back to time and time again.
I thought the ‘Mutate Kulambu’ or ‘Egg Curry’ looked a lovely recipe to share with you all. It is straightforward and is great for a vegetarian lunch or supper.
It talks about adding a tablespoon of Thool (curry powder), but since I bought some back with my from Sri Lanka I have not followed their recipe for curry powder but thought it might be useful to include it for you if you would like to replicate this recipe here at home. Their are 2 methods and I have shown you method ‘A’.
Roasted Tamil Curry Powder: Thool
250g coriander seeds
50g cumin seeds
75g fennel seeds
20g fenugreek seeds
250g dried red chillies
20 fresh curry leaves
1 tsp ground turmeric
50g black peppercorns
- Dry roast the coriander seeds in a frying pan until they are golden brown. Keep the pan moving the pan so that the spices do not burn. Remove from the pan and place to one side.
- In separate batches dry roast the cumin seeds, followed by the fennel and fenugreek seeds. Set aside.
- Dry roast the dried red chillies for 20 seconds or so allowing them to darken in colour. Set aside.
- Take the pan off the heat and when it is hot add the turmeric and toss for a few seconds so that it is lightly roasted.
- Place all the ingredients, including the black peppercorns into a spice grinder – I love my Krups – and grind to form a fine powder.
Place in an airtight container. They say it will last up to 2 months but I keep mine for much longer to be honest.
Muttai Kulambu: Egg Curry
serves 4
4 hard boiled eggs
2 tbsp oil
half tsp mustard seeds
half medium onion, finely chopped
6 fresh curry leaves
6 garlic cloves, cut into quarters
2 green chillies chopped
half tsp fenugreek seeds
quater tsp cumin seeds
quarter tsp ground turmeric
200ml coconut milk
400ml water
1 tbsp Thool – Sri Lankan curry powder
quarter tsp salt
- After boiling the eggs for 9 minutes (if medium size and 12 minutes if large eggs), shell them and cut them in half lengthways and set aside.
- Heat the oil in a medium, lidded saucepan over a low heat. Add the mustard seeds and once they begin to pop – which will be a few seconds later – add the onion and curry leaves and stir for a few seconds. Add the garlic, chillies, fenugreek and cumin seeds and cook until the onions are soft and turning golden.
- Add the turmeric and stir. Add the coconut milk, water, curry powder and salt and mix well. Bring to the boil then reduce the heat and half cover allowing the sauce to simmer for 10 minutes.
- Gently slide in the halved eggs and half cover with the lid again and simmer for a further 5 minutes. Taste for salt and remove from the heat and serve.
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